Showing posts with label Hawaii trip. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hawaii trip. Show all posts

Sunsets

This is what you expect to see in Hawaii. Beautiful white beaches and palm trees! On our last day, our flight didn't leave until almost 11 pm, so we checked out of our house and had a whole day to do a few more things. We couldn't really swim (though I really wanted to, because as I've mentioned, the water was WARM and I've never been anywhere else where you aren't freezing on the beach!) unless we wanted to pack wet and sandy clothes in our suitcases. So we just waded and looked in lava-rock tide pools and watched the airplanes fly in low over the beach. 
Light and shell-y. So different from the black sand beach we went to on the south side of the island.
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Hiking, Black Sand, and the South End of the Island

We spent our last few days on the drier, sunnier side of the island (the westish…southish…side) and it was SO beautiful. (I liked the rainy side best. But was so glad to get to experience both!) We stayed right by a pebble beach, all made of black lava rock. It was beautiful to look at but definitely not a place to frolic barefoot, even though the rocks were smooth and round and looked like they might feel nice…but there was just too much variation in their size and placement. Plus, your feet would sink into the pebbles and that made it feel like you were sliding two steps back for every one forward. Very daunting. We did try wading in the water a little but it was just TOO painful! The waves caught the pebbles and tossed them up at your legs and feet, none too gently! Ouch! (I do think it would have been fine if we'd had water shoes, so if we ever go back, we'll know to bring some!)

However…wading or no wading, it was a great beach for exploring! The sound of the water on the pebbles was amazing. Amid the usual growl of the waves you could hear the constant clacking and shifting of the pebbles sliding against each other, and the quiet rattle of rocks being tossed up and down when a wave swept back out to sea. In the Stormlight Archive books I just read with Abe, there's a world (Shadesmar) where the ocean is made of millions of little glass spheres. This beach sounded just how I imagined those Shadesmar beaches must sound, with their endless clatter of shifting spheres.
Such pretty black pebbles. They had that same reflective quality that we saw on the lava fields, where the black turns into silver from certain angles. I also thought it was pretty to see little pieces of white coral nestled in among the rocks.
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Sunday Drive around the Island

Sunday seemed like a good day to drive all around the upper half of the island. I know it's "the Big Island," but I liked that it wasn't SO big you couldn't tell you were ON an island—we could see our progress as we drove around and the ocean was on different sides of us depending where we were. 
But first we went to church. We saw a couple of our churches in Hilo (maybe there are more we didn't see). You can always tell when it's one of ours! Even if they are different-shaped than the ones back in Utah that look much the same as each other. This one had beautiful rainbow stained-glass windows in the chapel.
And a cool little open courtyard in the center! I love going to church in other places. Here, the bishopric wore leis and there were Christmas decorations in the foyer. So fun. People were friendly to us and it was just nice.
After church we drove up through Hilo again. There was a road all lined with Banyan Trees. They are so cool! I've only seen pictures of them before. They're like…those bead curtains people hung across their doorways in the 70s. Or like flap-brushes in a carwash. But alive!
(I'm fine with them as long as I don't think about those long vines growing down, down, down…INTO the ground. Thank you for asking.) (What do they do if there's something in their WAY when they get there? Just grow…through it? *shudder*)
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Flora and Fauna of the Big Island

Here is a sampling of the different flowers we saw in Hawaii. It is so fun to see flowers I've never seen before! Some of them I vaguely remember from my Floral Design class when we studied tropical arrangements, and some I know just because I've heard of them, like the plumeria—but some are still a mystery to me!
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Waves, Fruit, and a Morning Walk

There weren't very many beaches on the rainy side of the island. Just steep lava cliffs and powerful crashing waves. The view was so beautiful from the house we stayed in! I love watching waves anyway. But big waves are the best!
I loved watching all the different kinds of skies, too. Lots of rain coming in and moving out over the ocean. Lots of rainbows. Lots of mist and moisture in the air from the waves or the rain or both.
There were many little fruit stands and farmer's markets around. We wanted to try everything, but there just wasn't enough time! I still don't know what that huge spiny fruit is on the top right there. It looks vaguely menacing.
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Hilo and round about it

Hilo is the biggest town on this side of the island. Even right by the town there are beautiful streams and waterfalls, if slightly less wild than some of the other rainforest areas we saw.
Clementine looked very darling in her tiny Hawaiian dress. Even though it was too big and the little bloomers kept falling off of her.
Beautiful, beautiful brown-eyes!
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Rainforest

I didn't know that the Big Island of Hawaii had so much variety in climate. One side of the island is much drier and sunnier, and one side is wet and rainforesty. We ended up driving around the whole island over the course of a week, and it was cool seeing how different each area is, but by far my favorite part was the rainforest side! I LOVE rainforest! I've always wanted to see one, but I never thought I would get to! Well—I suppose I've been to a temperate rainforest at the Redwoods. But THIS little fella is as close as I've gotten, or thought I would ever get, to a tropical rainforest! (I'm sorry I called that a "little fella." I already regret it. But no going back now.)

Anyway, Hawaii's tropical rainforest was everything I dreamed it would be. There weren't any jaguars or macaws or monkeys, which I guess is a little sad, but it was still SO BEAUTIFUL. The sheer number of plants, and then the diversity of those plants, and the exoticism of them, was almost overwhelming. We drove along the Eastern Coast and it seemed like we couldn't drive more than a couple miles without crossing another stream, and every stream had multiple beautiful waterfalls, and every waterfall was surrounded by dense green forest full of ferns and flowers and vines. It made me think, desert-dweller that I am, about how there is definitely not an even distribution of greenery on this planet (and I suppose it would be quite boring if there was!).
When you look at a map of that side of the island, you can see why we were crossing so many streams. They are everywhere, feeding those green forests and running right down into the ocean—and that led to one of the most beautiful sights, which was where the rainforest met the ocean, like this:
You can stop along the road to look at vistas and waterfalls, and we did—many, many times; it's lucky Abe is a very patient person and likes rainforests too. But we stopped often enough that even from him, Sam and I could feel emanating waves of "Ugh, let's get on with it!" after a while. Perhaps you, O Reader of this Hawaii Trip Chronicle, find yourself sympathizing with him? Ha! Sam and I have no sense of getting on with it, left to ourselves. I suppose for that's reason it's good that we are so rarely left to ourselves! (As I said earlier, if it were up to me I'd probably be still standing and watching that volcano…which would have meant I'd never have gotten to see this amazing rainforest!)
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Lava Flows

I mentioned before that lava—hot flowing lava—has always fascinated me. I guess it fascinates everyone. You can lose yourself watching videos like this and this*—
*(those links will break, no doubt, but type "Hawaii lava timelapse" or a similar search into YouTube)

—captivated by the slow unfolding of each orange wave as it flows forward, the way the dark edges set and hold and then burst again, letting the next bright line break free. 
So yes, I knew I would love the lava. What I was unprepared for was the way its inexorable twisting, surging motion has been caught and held in the shapes of the cooled lava rock as well! You see lava rock it bits and pieces all over the island, of course, but it's particularly amazing to see the big lava flows where you can trace the length of the lava's path and imagine its motion. From some vantage points you can see all the way down to where the black land juts into the ocean, where the coastline is still being built inch by inch with every new eruption.

Walking over the lava and seeing that new earth growing into the ocean was a deeply spiritual experience for me. Part of what I felt was just awe at the stark beauty and pure power of God in nature. In one area, we hiked around on the lava flows from 2018, when a bunch of fissures opened in the earth and lava rivers poured out to swallow roads and cars and houses. So recent, so present. How can you not marvel at the upheaval caused by liquid stone as it blazes a path through trees and foliage, superimposing canyons and hillsides, destroying anything manmade? 
But then—I kept wondering—is destroying really the right word for what happened here? The 2018 Kilauea eruption created 875 new acres of land, as high as 919 feet in some places, I read. That new land is strange and beautiful—you'll see a hundred pictures of it here. Creation or destruction, then?

On the eve of sending my oldest child off into the world, with my emotions constantly close to the surface, the symbolism was almost too much for me. I've been trying to write and sort out my thoughts ever since I walked those lava fields, and my thoughts keep cycling around creation and destruction, beginnings and endings. Aren't we all Adam and Eve leaving Eden to create a place of our own? When I think back over all these years of motherhood, I can see the slow destruction of my babies as the layers of time and experience cover them—creating something new, certainly, but also losing those early layers as surely as if they'd been swallowed by lava. It's not something you can explain to the children themselves. They think they're the same people they always were. And yes. It's true that there's something consistent there—the germ, the seed, the spirit. I realize that what I see in mortality is only a slice of who they really are. Also, of course, as they grow up, I'd hate them to think I don't appreciate who they are now. I do! There comes a point in older childhood when every child realizes he's not as cute as he used to be, and I always try to be extra reassuring to my children at that point: oh no, you're even better now—so smart, so fun, so funny. I wouldn't trade you for your baby self. The current you is too delightful.

It's mostly true when I say that. And occasionally one of the children's past selves was difficult enough that I really am relieved to see it go. But what I don't tell them is that I've started to see each self as almost a living ghost, born only to start immediately fading. It's why as I get older, I cling to them a little longer, try to take their pictures, embarrass them with words like these. Even then it hardly seems to be enough. Where is this Abe now? And this one? And this one
And what I can't tell them is that sometimes the ache of where those previous selves used to be burns like a gaping hole in my heart. It's not quite like a death. But there's death in the air around it. Neil Peart has words for it, of course:
In the rise and the set of the sun
As the stars go spinning, spinning round the night
It is what it is, and forever
Each moment a memory of light

The arrow flies while you breathe
The hours tick away, the selves tick away
The watchmaker has time up his sleeve
The hours tick away, they tick away
But they don't tick away forever—right? Because the watchmaker does have time up his sleeve? It's one thing I hold onto, when I think of eternity; I guess you could say it's part of my testimony. At least, it's a hope I cling to—that somehow, in some form, the good parts of those past selves will live again, that what was lost will be restored. That someday, we will go home again, and home will be everything it was and everything it should have been, all at once.
Abe's leaving on his mission in a week (he may be gone already, by the time I manage to get these thoughts sorted through and publish this). I don't think he'd love the idea that any part of his mission is about ME. Ha! I only hope that by the time he reads this he can begin to understand—because in ways I'm only beginning to understand myself, his leaving is about me as well as him—my sacrifice, my refinement, my progression. 

I knew I would have to give things up for my children. But to continually give them up to their next selves…I didn't comprehend what that would mean. Somehow, I didn't foresee how inevitably it would lead them away—until what began as part of my very breath and body and soul becomes wholly new and wholly its own.

I'm also aware that I'm only halfway through this journey, in multiple ways. One child leaving home—eh, what's that? I don't know what it's like once they're all gone. I don't know what it's like to lose children to death, or to mourn their complete loss of faith. And I don't know what it's like to have them turn back to me, to grow into consecration, to begin to share the journey of parenthood, to see them lose and find treasures of their own. All of that may still be ahead. She's just a child herself, my mom said once to me a little disapprovingly about a mother she knew, but almost every day I think to myself, That's what I am too.
Parents always laugh about how their oldest children bear the brunt of their inexperience, and it's still true with Abe even now—I don't know how to mother a young adult. I'm a child at it. It astounds me to realize, after all the things I learned in my first forty years, that there's that much again I still don't know! Forty times forty more lifetimes couldn't hold it all. And most of what I do know seems impossible to pass on. But the other thing I felt so viscerally on the lava fields was a sense of time and scale; inklings about change and how God might see it. We watched a volcano documentary where scientists were taking samples of the lava. They plunged metal shovels into the glowing river, lifting it like you'd lift a shovelful of dirt or mud—but it isn't mud, it's rock, with all the heft and mass of rock, and they stagger under the weight of it—and it's only then that it suddenly strikes you: something is wrong with this; the rock is flowing. It's so foreign to everything we "know" from everyday experience.
As you stand on the hardened lava fields you can almost feel time shift, and imagine the rock still flowing around you, eddying like water—movement where there should be no movement, change where there should be permanence. I can't help wondering: is this how God sees the ancient landforms—always in motion? As our years narrow to his days, does he see the mountains sliding into hills, erosion compressed into landfall, and weathering applied like instant lacquer to the stones? Is the most fixed of landscapes actually ephemeral—what seems to us immutable flowing like lava over His eternal landscape?
I think maybe God hints at that view when He prophesies about the Last Days here
And also that of element shall melt with fervent heat; and all things shall become new, that my knowledge and glory may dwell upon all the earth.
It's strange thinking about what that might mean—"all things becoming new." A hopeful phrase, but with loss inherent in it—that fervent heat destroying what came before. Am I really ready to melt into a new creature, with everything that will entail? I said before that my children don't know they're changing from year to year—well, neither do I, for the most part. I always feel like ME. Of course I've run up against the refining process by now, and it has been painful, leaving selfish parts of myself behind. I haven't managed to shed them all yet. But mostly, it feels like I'm still so much who I've always been. I don't even know how many of my selves have slipped away. Does God mourn the loss of any of them? Does he see me flowing and changing, even now? Does he see destruction in it, or only glorious creation? 

I like to think God sees the best parts of all of me preserved in who I will someday become. And I'm trying to trust that I'll see it too in my children—after the fire flows through us.
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The Volcano

I don't know quite how to break this gently, but we went to Hawaii! Well…not ALL of us, obviously. Just a few of us. Let me backtrack: in November, I was thinking about Christmas and what to get Abe, who might or might not be on his mission by then. (And…this isn't really an interesting story, to be honest. Sorry for drawing it out like it's going to be.) 

Anyway—what with one thing and another, the following chain of events took place: I encountered, by accident, some deeply discounted flights to Hawaii—just as I was thinking about Abe and how he didn't really need any things for Christmas—and I knew he had always wanted to go see the volcanos in Hawaii—and then I ran the idea by Sam expecting to be brought back to earth by deadlines and finals and logistics—but instead found that the dates fell into an impossibly precise window of possibility—so we said a prayer and bought the tickets with a feeling of this is craziness—and then we just waited.

It was around Thanksgiving when this happened. The plane tickets were for early December, with its usual packed calendar of recitals, concerts, and parties. Abe didn't even have his mission call yet. He'd set his availability as "NOW" and for all we knew he'd leave before Christmas. Sam had two finals (to give, not to take…thank goodness we're past the "taking" days), as well as a bunch of freelance work to do…I had a nursing baby (who I figured could nurse in Hawaii as well as she could anywhere else)…oh, and let's not forget the eight other children that probably ought to be cared for in our absence. Anyway, I've always assumed that Hawaii is the sort of place you only get to visit once in a lifetime, if you're lucky. And Sam and I had gotten to go to Oahu when I was pregnant with Abe! So, I figured we'd had our 'once.' 

But…Abe's mission call came. Not leaving till January! And it turned out one of Sam's finals could move online, and if all went well we'd be home for the other one with three hours to spare. I arranged rides to the kids' rehearsals and classes while we'd be gone. Daisy and I made meal plans and cleaning schedules and stocked the fridge. Seb helped me talk to their manager so Abe could have work off that week. We kept it all secret from Abe, somehow. And it gradually dawned on me that everything really might work out so we could go!
We celebrated Malachi's birthday a week early. He had the idea to wrap Abe's plane tickets in one of his (Ky's) birthday presents, so we could take him (Abe) by surprise. (Generous of Malachi, wasn't it?) Abe was surprised! And we were all so excited! And that is how we came to be flying into the airport on the Big Island of Hawaii on a December afternoon, having survived 8 hours in the air. It was a pretty good flight for me and Baby Clementine (who was sweet and nursed for a good three-fourths of the flight) and Abe (who watched movies the whole time) but not Sam (who had terrible earaches from the air pressure). We were all very happy when we finally got there, though!
We stayed in a town called "Volcano" right by Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Teddy, who wasn't with us, but who is very interested in/terrified of volcanos right now, was quite concerned when he heard we'd be staying there, and had to be reassured several times that it was not actually IN a volcano. 

We had a cute little tiny rental house in the middle of the rainforest. We drove there in the dark, and it was raining off and on, and outside the car windows we could hear a loud "queeeee, queeeee"-ing. Tree frogs! It made everything felt very foreign and exciting. But the island is really dark at night—deliberately, because of the observatory up on Mauna Kea—and we couldn't get much sense of where we were. Plus, we were SO tired, and fell asleep almost immediately after arriving at the house. So in the morning, it was amazing to wake up to THIS:
Green everywhere! And warm, misty air so different from the December cold we'd left behind at home.
Abe slept up in this little loft.
It's amazing to think that all of this forest is growing on top of lava rock, but it is—you can see the lava peeking through in places, even where everything is so green and lush.
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